Top 5 Guide's pick
Best of Long Dong
Moby Dick, 5.10a
Named after the Yosemite classic. Long, easy yet enjoyable, it should be on every visiting climber's ticklist. The exposure coupled with gear placement is going excite an experienced trad leader or a budding rock climber. The best part is topping out on Whale's Head, a protrusion feature that resembles a head of a Whale staring out in the sea. Finish the climb with a free hanging 27m rappel or continue up the many variations up the beautiful face. A climb not to be missed!
Wedding Route, 5.7
If you are a 5.7-5.8 climber, this is a must do classic in Long Dong. The climb starts with a VB boulder problem which involves some high steps followed by a 80º slab with jugs everywhere. Dance up this 25m slab to a beautiful pedestal where you can stop and take in the view of the beautiful coast.
Climax 5.10c (3 pitch)
This 3 pitch climb is one of the gems of Long Dong. Seldom another party on this route makes it a great day without any waiting. This is also the closest you get to climb above the ocean in Long Dong. A short warm up pitch lead into the main course of the route. Pitch 2 is a stemming corner into a steep layback with big exposure. The holds on this route are all good making this a excellent 3 pitch adventure for all 5.10 top rope climbers.
Via Del Drago, 5.10c
Named after the famous route in Dolomiti, Italy, this short stout pitch has got everything from hand jams, fist jams, arm bars, chimney and laybacks. Finishing the route on top of a perch where you can sit and enjoy the evening sunset. My personal favourite and a great way to get out of the climbing area without hiking. Plus 1 for that!
